Familiar names and newcomers offer plenty of buying opportunities

James Molesworth
Posted: Friday, February 16, 2007 (Wine Spectator)

The 2004 Châteauneuf-du-Papes are now arriving in stores, and they represent an excellent buying opportunity. Quality is as high as 2003—and the 2004 vintage is far more consistent—but prices are holding steady so far.
Here are some of the latest releases, including the Beaucastel and Pégaü. If ever there were a way to show how two distinct styles of the same wine can both be equally compelling, tasting these side by side is it. Another Châteauneuf stalwart turning in a fine '04 is Daniel Brunier, whose Vieux Télégraphe is worth buying a case for the cellar. There are some new faces in here too: three cuvées from young Julien Barrot, 26, at Domaine La Barroche show promise, as do the '04s from Serge Gradassi, of Domaine des Pères de l'Église, whom I profiled in the July 31, 2006, issue.

CHÂTEAU DE BEAUCASTEL Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2004 96 $99
Thoroughly primal, with a torrent of raspberry and boysenberry fruit rushing forth, this only shows hints of its full range, with licorice, incense, graphite and mocha flavors fluttering in the background. It's also got ironclad structure, and a long finish that shows great cut and grip. Shows none of the severe tannins of the 2003. Best from 2009 through 2025. 14,165 cases made. —J.M.

DOMAINE DU PÉGAÜ Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée 2004 96 $70
A real powerhouse, with muscular layers of fig and black currant compote, backed by braised beef, chestnut, tobacco and tar flavors. Long, mesquite-filled finish lets additional bittersweet cocoa and dark fruit notes linger, along with lots of garrigue. Best from 2008 through 2025. 5,000 cases made. —J.M.

DOMAINE BOIS DE BOURSAN Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée des Félix 2004 94 NA
Really solid and packed, with black currant and fig paste notes pushed by dark, loamy tannins and notes of grilled herb, iron, black olive, tobacco and mineral. Long, structured finish. Best from 2009 through 2022. —J.M.

DOMAINE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau 2004 94 $52
Pure and silky, with raspberry, cocoa, truffle and mineral notes that glide along fresh acidity. Long, silky finish lets the fruit and minerality hang nicely, while the garrigue hangs in the background, This should blossom in the cellar. Best from 2008 through 2025. 15,000 cases made. —J.M.

DOMAINE LA BARROCHE Châteauneuf-du-Pape Pure 2004 92 $60
Dark, with an ample core of black cherry, raspberry and red plum fruit, layered with spice and toast notes. Nice pure fruit and minerality on the finish. 100 percent Grenache. Best from 2008 through 2017. 292 cases made. —J.M.

DOMAINE BOIS DE BOURSAN Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2004 92 NA
Burly style, with lots of braised chestnut, game, black pepper and beef leading the way. There's a solid core of black currant fruit as well, and a long, structure-driven finish with great herb and mineral notes. Best from 2009 through 2022. —J.M.

F. & D. BRUNIER Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Roquète L'Accent 2004 92 $60
Ripe and structured, with blackberry, dark licorice, graphite and truffle notes. Long, solid finish has nice, buried minerality. Best from 2008 through 2017. 330 cases made. —J.M.

DOMAINE DES PÈRES DE L'ÉGLISE Châteauneuf-du-Pape Le Calice de St.-Pierre Heritage 2004 92 $40
Rich and fleshy, with lots of dark plum and currant fruit, layered with toast, licorice, truffle and loam notes. Rich, dark, fleshy finish. Shows traditional notes with modern power. From the estate's oldest vines, some 100 years old. Best from 2008 through 2017. 100 cases imported. —J.M.

DOMAINE LA BARROCHE Châteauneuf-du-Pape Fiancée 2004 91 $46
Juicy, with lots of plum, licorice and mixed berry fruit, this is a forward '04, with notes of sweet spice and cocoa filling out the stylish finish. Equal parts Grenache and Syrah. Drink now through 2017. 455 cases made. —J.M.

DOMAINE LA BARROCHE Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réserve 2004 91 $40
Perfumy, traditional style, with raspberry, incense, mineral and lavender notes running along fine-grained tannins. Long, minerally finish. 60 percent Grenache and 20 percent Mourvèdre, along with Syrah and Cinsault. Drink now through 2017. 620 cases made. —J.M.

F. & D. BRUNIER Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Roquète 2004 91 $30
High-toned at first, with cherry and floral aromas, this quickly shows more density though, with layers of black currant and graphite along with taut, sinewy tannins that drive the finish. Drink now through 2017. 7,500 cases made. —J.M.

DOMAINE DE CRISTIA Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2004 91 $36
Solid, with lots of ripe plum, currant and fig fruit backed by tobacco, olive and pepper notes. Muscular finish, but has a nice minerallity too, which stretches it out. Drink now through 2020. 200 cases imported. —J.M.

DOMAINE DES PÈRES DE L'ÉGLISE Châteauneuf-du-Pape Le Calice de St.-Pierre 2004 90 $30
Traditional style, with lots of stone, mineral and garrigue flavors, but it's plenty rich too, with currant and fig fruit, and a long, tobacco- and mineral-driven finish. Best from 2008 through 2016. 500 cases imported. —J.M.

DOMAINE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE Châteauneuf-du-Pape Télégramme 2004 89 $30
Racy, with cassis and red plum fruit held in check by racy mineral, garrigue and graphite notes. Long, taut finish. Drink now through 2014. 4,165 cases made. —J.M.